Craftsman Interview

Master Blacksmith Yoshio Yamashita and his apprentice, Ryosuke Shibata, craft our Sakai Takayuki Kasumi series. Learn more about their history and knife making process.

Tell us a little about how you became a blacksmith.

Yamashita: My father was a blacksmith and I always knew that I’d follow in his footsteps. I have been doing this for 52 years now, I started as my father’s apprentice when I was 18 years old. Now I’m 70 and still working as a blacksmith. 

Shibata: Back when I was in middle school, I used to go mountain climbing and fishing at the seaside. I used normal, store bought knives and couldn’t find much that was both designed well and cut well within my price range. One day while researching on the Internet I found out that yes, indeed, you can make knives yourself. It became my hobby and as I was getting better at it I became increasingly interested in the craft and finally decided to make it my job.  

What is the process for forging a single-edged blade? 

Yamashita: Here are the steps.

Forge Welding and Forging

To make our knives we use mild steel with next to no carbon in it for the cladding, and a high carbon steel called white steel for the cutting layer. The first step is to take a one-meter long bar of high carbon steel, hammer flat enough material for one knife at one end and cut it off. A chemical acting as an adhesive of sorts is then applied to help forge weld it to a bar of mild steel at a temperature of about 1050 degrees centigrade. After roughly hammering it into shape, the knife blank is cut off from the bar and a tang is formed from a bit of mild steel left over at the rear. The entire knife is hammered until it’s close to the desired measurements. After the forging process is complete the knife is annealed, meaning it’s cooled slowly to remove internal stress and strengthen it.

Shaping and Finishing

Once cool, the knife is again hammered to remove the oxide layer that formed on the surface of the knife during forging. Switching from hand to belt hammer, the knife is further shaped and thinned out without heating it. After this, the blank is cut into shape along a template using a hand operated shearing machine. Hammering the backside of the blank gives it its characteristic hollow shape. Any warping that may have occurred until now is hammered out and the blank straightened. Using a grinder and a buffer, the surfaces of the knife are smoothened as a final step. 

Heat treatment

Next, clay is applied to the surface of the knife and it is laid on top of the furnace to dry. This is to control the speed of the temperature changes that will occur during hardening and to protect the surface of the knife. Using a mixed coal and coke fire, the knife is heated to a temperature of about 780º centigrade and then quenched in water. After hardening is complete, the knife is tempered at about 180º centigrade. Using a small hammer, warp and distortion caused by hardening are corrected and the protective layer of clay is taken off, marking the end of the blacksmith’s work.   

What does a typical work day forging look like for you?

Yamashita:

After lighting a fire in the morning, I forge around ten to fifteen knives, after which I heat treat the ones that Shibata-san prepared and finished. 

Shibata:

I shape and finish the blanks my master forges. Working at the same pace as he does, I do about ten to fifteen knives a day.

Is there part of the process that is particularly challenging or satisfying for you?

Yamashita:

The forge welding of mild steel and carbon steel is hard but is also especially satisfying when everything goes well. What makes it hard is that you have to strike a balance between a multitude of factors such as the mixture of the borax and boric acid we use as an adhesive, the temperature of the coke fire and the timing and technique of your hammering. Heat treatment is also very important for bringing out the full potential and characteristics of the steel, so if that goes well, I’m just as happy.  

Shibata: 

Cold hammering the knife blanks with the belt hammer is hard, as you have to make minute, three dimensional adjustments to a blank which tapers both from heel to tip and from spine to edge. My work on this step also affects the following grinding and sharpening, so I’m especially careful. 

Favorite steel type to work with and why?

Yamashita:

I like to work with Yasuki White #3 Steel. Compared to White #2’s 1.1% of carbon, White #3 comes with 0.85% carbon, making it slightly softer.  On the other hand, its tougher and less brittle, making it less prone to chipping. Compared to White #2, there are also fewer problems with forge welding and heat treatment, making it easier to achieve consistent quality. 

How do you think Sakai can attract more young apprentices to keep the craft of forging alive?

Yamashita:

Working as a blacksmith means working in constant heat with your hands and getting your clothes dirty. While it’s demanding and not many young people today want to do this kind of work, making knives also gives you a sense of accomplishment. In a way, they are like our children we bring into this world. Thinking about how they get put to work and how they perform in many kitchens around the world makes me really happy.    

The job has its downsides, but I would like young people to see these positive aspects as well and get involved. 

The passing on of knowledge and techniques can’t all be done by putting it into words and writing a manual. Just like Shibata-san, who is training under me, you first watch and memorize the movements and repeat and refine them every day at work. Meanwhile I will gradually teach the basic techniques and movements and let the apprentice advance step by step. It’s important to gain experience as to which ways of doing it work well and which don’t. That’s why normally it takes about five to ten years to really know what you’re doing.  

Shibata:

When I was looking for a master to train with, the biggest problem was finding someone who would be willing take on an apprentice in general, as many blacksmiths who work on their own don’t have the means to pay an apprentice’s wage. Many places don’t pay any money or you even have to pay them to teach you. Now I’m employed regularly at Aoki Hamono, the wholesaler and knife maker behind Sakai Takayuki, and train under master Yamashita who works independently. That way I can make a living and focus on my training. 

This model of apprenticeship is extremely rare in Japan and I don’t know if it will catch on among knife makers and blacksmiths, but I do believe it could help with finding the next generation of craftspeople to carry on the tradition. 

In a few decades, when I’ll be ready to take on an apprentice of my own, I too will try to come up with a setup that allows for the apprentice to live a reasonably comfortable life while in training.  

Regarding the passing on of skills and techniques I agree with my master. It’s important to first watch and repeat and gradually get experience. 

I’m only in my first year of training but I want to continue giving my best learning something new every day. 

Any thoughts on why Japanese knives have become so popular overseas?

Yamashita:

Sushi and other Japanese food have been seeing a worldwide boom, while people around the world had a chance to to use Japanese knives. Through that, they learn about the special sharpness and feel of traditional single bevel knives. I also think that they are beautiful and have a mystique around them, a sacred feel even, linking them to the traditions of Japanese swords.

Shibata: 

Traditional Japanese knives are used and sharpened in unique ways. Now there may be people who feel that they’re a bit hard to use but a well sharpened single bevel knife actually allows for smooth cutting that’s easier on the ingredients than cutting with a normal knife. I believe traditional Japanese knives to be valued as tools that help bring out the best in beauty and taste of sophisticated cuisine. 

Itsuo Doi + The Craftsman of Sakai Takayuki

By Priya Krishna | Photography courtesy of Dylan + Jeni

Dylan Ho and Jeni Afuso are a husband-and-wife photography duo with a passion for storytelling—particularly within the culinary realm. They have shot for numerous cookbooks, as well as publications like Food & Wine, Travel & Leisure, and Saveur, capturing the people and places that make up global food and drink culture.

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 As part of a passion project, which began a few years ago, Dylan and Jeni have returned to Japan several times to create a series of photo essays on the country’s craftsmen.  They were inspired by the dedication and artistry these makers exhibit within their individual pursuits, and Jeni, as a Japanese-American, who lived in Sakai City for two years was eager to showcase this through her lens.

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This past December, we met up with Dylan and Jeni outside of Osaka, to introduce them to one of the knife craftsmen we most admire: Itsuo Doi.  His workshop is located in Sakai City, an area that has been the heart of Japanese knife crafting, beginning with samurai swords in 14th century and transitioning to kitchen knives when sword making was outlawed in the 1860s.

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 Sakai has become a bustling city in and of itself, with residences intermingled among several knife workshops. It is here that you’ll find one of the most well known knife making families in Japan.   The business is run by Itsuo Doi, son of legendary blacksmith Keijiro Doi.  Keijiro Doi is among Japan’s most celebrated blacksmiths, having recently retired, at age 85. He has won several awards for his craft and is considered by many a living national treasure of Japan. Itsuo Doi started apprenticing with his father at age 24 and has now been practicing as a blacksmith for more than 40 years.

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 In Japan, knife craftsmanship is a trade as well as an art form—a blacksmith might spend a lifetime perfecting just one skill involving in the making of a blade, and apprentices are not considered proficient until they have been working for at least 10 years. Traditional Japanese singled edged-knives are known for being task specific: the Western style versions are lighter and more balanced, while the single edge knives allow for more exact knife work. This precision is the result of not only the quality of Japanese steels but also the time-intensive process of heating, cooling, forging, and sharpening that each blade undergoes.  

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For Itsuo Doi, every step of the knife making process is done by eye and by hand. There is very little technology involved in the procedure; knives are made using the same tools that have been in the family for hundreds of years. Stepping into the workshop feels almost counterintuitive to the hi-tech, futuristic factories for which Japan is so distinguished—the warehouse is dark, the tools are rusty, and the wooden walls are faded. And yet, the quality of the knives produced by the the Doi family is incomparable.

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We are honored to present this series depicting the Doi family’s extraordinary knifemaking process through Dylan and Jeni’s eyes.

For its Takayuki Sakai knives, Doi-san uses Aogami 2 Blue steel, noted for its superior edge retention, toughness, and durability. The process begins with the heating of the blade. In order to do this, one must heat the charcoal to a very precise temperature—Itsuo Doi can determine this simply by looking at the color of the charcoal. The blade is then heated over the fire, and forged into the exact shape that it needs to be. Doi-san does not possess any kind of mold or measurements for shaping the knives, but each comes out looking almost exactly identical to the one before. After each blade is forged and shaped, it is cooled, and then hammered again to strengthen and sharpen the blade. Even with Doi-san’s highly skilled hands, there are always blades that don’t meet his precise standards for knife making, and end up getting recycled—in fact, just a small percentage of the blades created in the warehouse end up becoming knives.

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Next comes the ‘Yaki’ phase, whose purpose is to harden the blade. Once again, the process requires a very specific furnace temperature—720 degrees—which Doi-san can determine simply by looking at the color of the coals.

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The final parts of the knife making involve crafting the edge of the blade—an extremely delicate process done by hand on a series of natural fine grit sharpening stones—and finally, attaching the handle. Like most Japanese knife makers, Doi-san uses Japanese magnolia to craft the handles due to its sturdiness and resistance to water. Lastly, handles are fitted with a water buffalo horn and attached to the blade.

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To make even a single blade, this entire order of operations will take at least three or four days. Only about 12 knives are completed each day, making each one extremely special. In fact, the company name, “Chubo,” means “restaurant kitchen” in Japanese—an homage to the rigorous, high standards evident in the country’s sense of hospitality.

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More of Dylan + Jeni’s photographs from Sakai Takayuki can found here.